Nashville, the Bakersfield Sound and musical magic

If you’ve ever had a hankering to visit Nashville, now is the time. And if you’re a lover of The Bakersfield Sound, you have a once-in-a-lifetime window to see something magical. 

I recently parachuted into Nashville for 2.5 days, using frequent-flier miles to control the costs on one of my periodic music vacations. Of prime importance for this trip was to see the fabulous Bakersfield Sound exhibit at the Country Music Hall of Fame, whose extended run will end this Dec. 31.

For decades, Nashville sniffed at the raw music coming out of Bakersfield but these days, but these days The Bakersfield Sound is riding high thanks to the open minds at the Country Music Hall of Fame. The show’s formal title is “The Bakersfield Sound: Buck Owens, Merle Haggard and California Country” and it is a tour de force for music fans. For decades, Nashville sniffed at the raw music coming out of Bakersfield but these days, but these days  The Bakersfield Sound is riding high thanks to the open minds at the Country Music Hall of Fame. 

I’ve posted dozens of photos and notes in a separate photo gallery but here are a few tips on places of interest for  music lovers. My visit was relatively quick so the recommendations below are by no means thorough for hardcore visitors who want a well-rounded view of what is a great American city: 

Country Music Hall of Fame: A terrific museum operated by pros. It’s pricey but well worth it, whether you like country music or not. Lots of multimedia, and items of interest of all ages and persuasions. The gift shop has an excellent book selection. 

RCA Studio B: The Hall of Fame handles tours of this famed studio, which is a 10-minute bus ride away (that bus ride takes you through Music Row, where many famous record companies and publishing houses are located). The look inside the studio is interesting, but your time inside is rushed, and I wish the guide had spent more time on the studio’s unique characteristics rather than spouting off chart positions of an endless stream of hit records. Stop by the Hall of Fame gift shop and pick up one or two of the Studio B compilation CDs highlighting some of the famous songs recorded at the studio (I can vouch for Volume 1, which contains Roger Miller's incredible "You Don't Want My Love"). 

The big names that have performed at the Ryman Auditorium is breathtaking. The venue itself is equally so.Ryman Auditorilum: The original home of the Grand Ole Opry is just a few blocks from the Hall of Fame and Broadway, where live music rings around the clock. The tour includes stops in every backstage room, including the Minnie Pearl Room that contains a fantastic photo of Minnie standing between young Bakersfield Sound stars Buck Owens and Tommy Collins. Cameras are prohibited backstage, so I couldn’t grab a shot, unfortunately. 

Third Man Records: This eclectic shop in an industrial area is owned and operated by the enigmatic Jack White, he of White Stripes and Raconteurs fame. 

Ernest Tubb Record Shop: Classic record store owned and operated by a country music legend is now fueled more by memorabilia than the music inside. Good selection of music books and box sets. I caught some great live music during my visit, on the store’s 67th birthday. 

Johnny Cash Museum: This is a newer addition to the Nashville scene. I didn’t pay to see the museum, but did shop in the gift shop (I bought my wife some nice-smelling soap and candles whose names — “I Walk the Lime,” “A Bar NamedSue” among them -- are derived from classic Cash songs). 

Drink: Beer is plentiful along Broadway but too often it’s cheap, mass-produced lager pushed to those who want a quick drunk. Broadway Brewhouse has an impressive wall of more than 70 diverse craft beers on tap, and seemed to have 2-for-1 specials whenever I stopped in. This is more sports bar and music club, which was fine by me as it allowed me to watch a Chicago Blackhawks playoff game in between club stops. 

Live music: Musicians, performing or otherwise, are everywhere. Some of the clubs on and off Broadway are too enormous for my taste, but I found great performances at Bourbon Street Blues and Boogie Bar (eclectic blues and soul), Robert’’s Western World and Tootsie’s, (hard country), reggae at a street festival, Legend’s and Layla’s Bluegrass Inn. I heard great music, bad music and everything in between, including three very different different versions of “Don’t Stop Believin’” in the space of 8 hours. But in this kind of environment, it’s hard not to find joy in what’s staring you in the face, even if you are dodging drunks by the dozens. 

Books and records:

• Howlin’ Books ranks among the finest music bookstores I’ve visited anywhere. It took me an hour just to scan the music books. Howlin' shares space with Grimey’s Music, an eclectic used and new music shop. This is a drive from downtown but is highly recommended. 
• Bookman & Bookwoman also is a drive but has a very good used music-book selection. I bought Nick Tosches’ “Hellfire” biography of Jerry Lee Louis. The book cover contained multiple blurbs proclaiming it the greatest rock biography ever. It is. 

Food: I shortshrifted food during my visit but did have a great meal and drinks at The Southern, just a few blocks off Broadway. High-quality craft food, craft beer and a nice selection of bourbon.

This was my second visit to Nashville (the first was a one-day stop as part of a Louisville-Nashville-Memphis bourbon and music drive I did 10 or so years ago). With each visit, I leave happy and knowing there's so much yet to discover when I return.  

Update on Saturday, June 7, 2014 at 8:32 AM by Logan Molen

The Wall Street Journal today published a fabulous installment in its "Take Monday Off" series that shares a three-night itinerary for discovering Nashville. The WSJ recommendations contain more shopping and less music for my tastes -- I think there are only five or six shared destinations -- but provide a great overview of the city's charms, and leaves little time for rest.

That pace sounds like my kinda vacation.